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Termite Inspection Melbourne

Inner West Melbourne

Termite Barriers Melbourne

A continuous barrier between the soil and your home's timber, installed to AS 3660 and matched to the way your Inner West house was built.

Last updated 22 September 2026

What's included

  • A site assessment of footings, slab edges, subfloor and service penetrations to plan a continuous barrier
  • Chemical treated zones installed by trenching, rodding and drilling in line with the product label
  • Non-repellent termiticides so foraging termites pass through the zone and carry it back to the colony
  • Physical barriers such as stainless steel mesh or graded stone for new slabs, extensions and renovations
  • Drilling and injection through paths, patios and garage slabs where concrete abuts the house
  • A durable notice in the meter box and a certificate recording the system, product and date installed

Signs you need this

  • Your home has been treated for termites and you want a treated zone to stop the next attack
  • You are planning an extension, a new slab or a subfloor conversion in an older Inner West home
  • The meter box notice shows a previous chemical treatment that is past its label period
  • There is no record of any termite management system on a house built before the current standards
  • New paving, decking or garden beds have been built up against the walls and bridged the old barrier
  • Termites have been found next door or in nearby street trees and you want protection in place first

How It Works

Four steps for termite barriers melbourne

01Inspect the Building Envelope

Before any barrier goes in we inspect the home for existing activity and walk the full perimeter, noting slab edges, stumps, wet areas, paving and every pipe or cable that enters the building.

02Design the Barrier

You get a marked-up plan showing where the treated zone runs, where drilling is needed through concrete, and any spots where a physical system or a bait station makes more sense.

03Install the System

Trenches are dug against footings and treated, concrete is drilled at set spacings and injected, and subfloor soil is rodded so there is no gap termites can walk through untouched.

04Maintain and Re-inspect

A barrier is not set and forget. We record the install, fix a notice in the meter box, and recommend annual inspections so the zone is checked and renewed before the label period runs out.

What a termite barrier does for an Inner West home

A termite barrier is not a wall that keeps termites out forever. It is a managed system that makes it very hard for subterranean termites to reach timber without being detected, and it only works as part of a plan that includes regular inspection. The Australian Standards set this out clearly: AS 3660.1 covers systems built into new buildings, and AS 3660.2 covers protection and treatment for existing buildings. Most of the work we do across Seddon, Kingsville, West Footscray and Newport sits under the second standard, retrofitting protection to houses that were built long before anyone thought about it.

That matters because the Inner West’s older housing was never designed with termites in mind. Edwardian and Victorian weatherboards sit on red gum or concrete stumps a few hundred millimetres above damp clay. Many have had bathrooms and laundries added on slabs that meet the original subfloor at an awkward junction. Post-war brick veneers in Sunshine and Braybrook have slab edges hidden under garden beds. Every one of these details is a route for Coptotermes acinaciformis, the subterranean species behind most damage in Melbourne, and one that termite damage insurance exclusions leave you to pay for yourself.

Chemical barriers: the standard retrofit

A chemical barrier, more accurately a treated zone, is termiticide applied to the soil in a continuous band around and under the building. It is the usual answer for an existing home because it can be installed without touching the structure.

How the zone is installed

On garden and lawn sides, a trench is dug against the footings or stumps, the excavated soil is treated as it is returned, and the trench base is treated as well. Where the house is on stumps, the subfloor soil is rodded: a lance injects termiticide at set intervals across the area under the floor and around each stump. Where concrete paths, patios, driveways or garage slabs abut the walls, the concrete is drilled at regular spacings close to the wall, termiticide is injected under the slab and the holes are plugged. A treated zone with a single gap is a funnel, not a barrier.

Choosing the termiticide

We generally use non-repellent termiticides, such as fipronil-based products, in retrofit work. Termites cannot detect them, so foragers cross the zone, are exposed, and carry the product back to the nest through grooming and feeding. This gives a treated zone a colony-reducing effect that a repellent product does not have. Repellent termiticides like bifenthrin still have their place, and we will explain why if we propose one.

Whatever product is used, the treated zone has a life set by its registered label and must be renewed at the label period. It is not permanent.

Physical barriers: for new slabs, extensions and renovations

Physical termite barriers are built into the structure and cannot be retrofitted to a finished house, but they come into their own whenever building work happens. If you are extending a Federation weatherboard in Kingsville, pouring a slab for a rear addition in Newport, or converting an old factory shell in Footscray to apartments, AS 3660.1 will govern the new work and a physical system is usually the cleanest solution.

The common systems are stainless steel mesh, fixed across slab penetrations and cavity edges so termites cannot pass; graded stone, a layer of crushed particles sized so termites can neither move them nor squeeze between them; and sheet or membrane systems bonded to the slab edge. None of these rely on chemicals and none need renewal, though the joints between new and old construction still need to be inspected. On a renovation we often combine a physical barrier in the new section with a chemical treated zone around the original house, so the whole building is covered.

What the installation day looks like

We start with an inspection of the house and grounds. If there is active termite activity, that is dealt with first through termite treatment of the workings, because installing a barrier over live termites traps them inside with the timber. We then walk the perimeter and mark up where trenching, rodding and drilling will happen, where services enter the building, and any spot where a bait station is the better option, for instance along a shared wall or a heritage path we would rather not drill.

Garden beds are dug out and backfilled, concrete is drilled and plugged, and the subfloor is rodded through the access hatch. When we finish, a durable notice goes in the meter box recording the system, the product, the date and the recommended inspection interval, as the standard requires, and you receive a certificate and plan for your records.

Keeping the barrier working

A barrier is defeated by bridging, and bridging is almost always caused by changes made after the install. Mulch piled above the slab edge. A new deck with posts sitting on the soil and touching the bearers. Pavers laid over the treated zone. A raised vegetable bed against the weatherboards. Firewood stacked on the ground against the wall. All of them give termites a route over the zone without touching treated soil.

That is why every barrier we install comes with a recommendation for an annual termite inspection. The inspection checks the zone for disturbance, looks for bridging, checks moisture in the subfloor, and tells you when renewal is due. In high-risk spots, particularly houses near the river flats, Stony Creek or stands of mature eucalypts, a shorter interval can be sensible.

Booking a termite barrier in the Inner West

Whether you have just had termites treated, you are about to renovate, or the notice in the meter box is well past its date, the first step is an inspection and a written proposal. Our technicians hold the licensing Victoria requires for pest management, and we will tell you plainly which system fits your house. Contact us for a free quote.

Frequently Asked Questions

Common questions about termite barriers melbourne

What is a termite barrier, and does it actually stop termites?
A termite barrier is a continuous system between the soil and the timber of a building that termites cannot cross without being detected or killed. Chemical barriers are treated zones in the soil. Physical barriers are materials like stainless steel mesh, graded stone or bonded sheeting that termites cannot chew through, built into the structure. A barrier alone does not kill a colony, but it forces termites into the open where an inspection will find them before damage is done.
Which barrier suits an existing Inner West home?
For an existing house the practical option is almost always a chemical treated zone, because physical barriers need to be built into the slab or footings during construction. A treated zone can be retrofitted to a weatherboard on stumps by trenching the perimeter and rodding the subfloor, and to a brick veneer on a slab by trenching the garden sides and drilling the concrete sides. Physical systems come into play when you extend, re-stump or pour a new slab.
How long does a chemical termite barrier last?
Each termiticide has a registered label that sets the expected life of the treated zone, and that label period is what we work to. Soil type, moisture, drainage and disturbance all affect it. Heavy clay soils in the west hold product well, but a new garden bed dug through the zone or a path poured over it will break the barrier long before the label period ends. Annual inspections are how you know the zone is still intact and when renewal is due.
What is the difference between repellent and non-repellent termiticides?
A repellent termiticide such as bifenthrin creates a zone termites detect and avoid. It protects the building but the colony keeps foraging elsewhere and will find any gap. A non-repellent termiticide such as a fipronil-based product is undetectable to termites, so they pass through the treated soil, pick up the product and transfer it to nest mates. Non-repellents are our usual choice for retrofits because they protect the house and reduce the colony at the same time.
Do I need a termite barrier if the house has never had termites?
Not necessarily, but you should know what your risk is. A house in Seddon or Kingsville with a wet subfloor, gum trees within fifty metres and a history of termites in the street is at real risk even if it has been lucky so far. A pre-installed treated zone is far cheaper than treating active termites and repairing damage, which home insurance will not cover. If you are unsure, start with an inspection and we will tell you honestly whether a barrier is warranted.
Will the installation damage my paving, garden or floors?
Some disturbance is unavoidable. Trenching runs along the footings through garden beds and lawn, which we backfill and tidy. Concrete paths, patios and garage slabs against the house are drilled at regular spacings with holes about the size of a ten cent coin, injected and then plugged with matching mortar. Inside a subfloor nothing is visible afterwards. We walk you through exactly where the work will happen before we start so there are no surprises.
Can termites get past a barrier?
They can bridge one if something gives them a path over or around it. Common culprits in the Inner West are garden beds and mulch built up above the slab edge or damp course, decking or steps in contact with both the soil and the house, and paving poured after the treated zone went in. Termites can also come through unsealed service penetrations. That is why the barrier is always paired with an inspection program, so bridging is spotted and fixed early.

Book termite barriers

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